Amalfi Honeymoon, Day 1 and 2

The night before our flight, Marc and I went to bed at 1:00 am and had to be up at 7:00 am. We’d spent much of that night trying to get our bags down to 15 lbs so we wouldn’t have to check them on our Virgin Atlantic flight. We managed to take out 6 lbs of lotion, shampoo, laundry detergent and books, but both packs still weighed in at about 18 lbs. Although we didn’t pack nearly as many clothes as our last trip, knowing we’d have access to our own washer and dryer in our apartments, we found ourselves packing things we’d need like candles and dish soap. Finally we gave up on the packs and went to sleep.

The next AM we were on our first flight to Newark at 11:00 am. Marc, who had previously held no interest whatsoever in seeing “Monster-In-Law” was suddenly anxious to see it. So we shared my headphones and watched it. Our lunch consisted of a cheeseburger, potato chips, and potato salad?!? The first flight went by relatively fast. On our 2nd flight, we had to check in our bags at V.A. We were asked if London was our final destination and we said No, it’s Naples. The guy started writing up our tags for our luggage as Marc and I kinda looked at each other like, Are we gonna have to pick up our bags in London? So I asked him if they would get sent to Naples, and he said Yes. Then the other V.A. guy kinda mumbled something to him and I had a very bad feeling about our luggage making it, a feeling that would turn out to be accurate.

By the time we boarded, it was getting dark in Newark. The flight to London left ½ hour late. I began to suffer from motion sickness on the flight to London. Our dinner on the VA flight consisted of veggie canneloni, a roll with butter, crackers and cheese, complimentary wine, and a small ceasar salad and a piece of Key Lime pie. Everything was packaged so cute! Then I tried to sleep as best as I could.

At Heathrow, because we didn’t have to pick up bags or go thru customs, we had plenty of time to make our connecting flight, but the gate wasn’t announced until 30 min before it left! We spent 5 euros on a muffin and water, we were so thirsty… The next flight we had to purchase our food. I still felt sick and tired so I tried to sleep. It was a 3 hour flight, not full, so we had 3 seats to ourselves.

Arrived in Naples at about 2:00-ish. As we were waiting in line to go thru Customs, we were paged overhead: “Hubbard/Hall, please go to lost and found…” We had our carry-ons and our passports, what could we have lost? Turns out our luggage did not make it. We were told our luggage would be brought to Capri the following day. We were given His and Hers Toiletry bags, and then we left.

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This is supposed to replace your lost luggage…

We caught the SITA bus right outside the airport. We bought our tix inside the airport at the tobacconists. The bus wound thru Naples and ended up at the port where the ferries leave from. I was unimpressed with Napoli. Dirty, busy urban mecca. The streets were teeming with cars and pedestrians who navigate the traffic like cats with limitless lives. We had to cross a busy street to get to the port.

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Leaving Napoli for Capri

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Dawn & Marc on our honeymoon!!!

We bought tix to Capri for 15 euros each, and the hydrofoil left 10 min after we bought them. I was still woozy and by then, also very tired and anxious about getting seasick. We sat up top, outside, on the ferry, and I think my 2nd wind kicked in then. The sun was shining and a fine mist from the sea would occasionally mist us. A man came by peddling croissants and we bought one. The ride lasted about 45 min. At Capri, the hydrofoil deposited us at the Marina Grande. Funicular tix were 1.30. It took 5 or 10 min to get to Capri Town.

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View from the funicular.
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View from where the funicular drops you off.
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Pretty little clocktower. Capri town.

The only thing that had been a comfort was the thought of a comfy bed and a quiet room. The “hotel” turned out to have neither. Our room had the sea view that the website promised, but in front of the sea view was Capri’s bus station. Through the open window, we could hear the buses chuffing noisily.

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The “sea view” from out “hotel” i.e. pensione…
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Pensione bedroom.
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Alternate view from our room.

Marc lay down to rest, but I was still feeling my second wind and wanted to go explore. We agreed to find a place to eat and then we’d go to bed. I got out the guidebook to find a place, and within 2 min, Marc was softly snoring. We’d been up for like 28 hours? I went to the superkaret, got Gatorade, mineral water, pizza slices, a rice ball, and some rolls, and walked around a bit. Upscale shops and elegantly dressed people everywhere. Back to the hotel. We ate dinner and went to bed at 6:00-ish. I woke up at 4:00 am, took a benadryl, and we slept until 10:00.

Day 2. Thursday

Next morning. Ate breakfast with pensione owner’s pimply-faced teenager in the kitchen. Like something out of a bad, bad comedy movie. Bus to Anacapri. Stuffed like sardines in a tin. Axel Munthe house. Gardens. Kitties. Views.

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Axel Munthe House, Capri.
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Marc, Axel Munthe House & look at those views!
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Spot the kitty! I think they are well taken care of here…

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Amazing views.
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Marc, Axel Munthe House.

Chair left to Mount Solaro. Walked to church—it was closed. Walked back, irritated. Geckoes everywhere.

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Lunch was mozzarella and tomato on ciabatta sandwiches. Back down on chairlift. Marc a bit afraid… Cat sleeping in the hedge. Bus to Marina Grande. Blue grotto closed. Sat there, trying to decide what to do. Marc took photo for Japanese tourists and almost fell in the water!

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Decided to go back to hotel to check if luggage had showed up. It hadn’t. We decided to wander. Augustus gardens. Reverse of Fodor’s walk meant walking up hundreds of stairs… Beautiful restaurant with moon shining on water and the soft pink lavender sky. Too hot and sweaty. Back to pensione. Showered and back to the same clothes… Went across street for dinner. Prosciutto e melone, 2 kinds of ravioli, one in pesto, one in cream sauce, lemon torte and water. 40 euros. Wandered the piazza and then back to the pensione. Sleep.

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Go on the next part of the journey!

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